February 28-29, 2016
Friday, February 26
1973: "Martha-Ann came in at 8:30, recognized a black guy from a coffee house in Newport News."
The California line to Medford
Not sure when I crossed the line but now I'm 5 miles into Oregon, looking down on a snow-covered range to my left covered by haze in the distance by rain and clouds. "Long Steep Downgrade Ahead." Siskiyou Mountain Summit, 4310 feet.
Onto Oregon Route 99 at Ashford, elevation 2500, at 2:33, temp 49. 2:55 heading west toward Medford, Route 99 lined with businesses. Rain stops, a little blue, clouds lying in the valley in front of the mountains. Days Inn at 4:00 (hard time finding it), temp 51, odometer 122623. Nice guy at the desk, good head of white hair and a white handlebar mustache. In the evening I had a reuben and a mint shake at Arby's.
Crater Lake/Ray and Carol Locke
Saturday, February 27
1989: "Standing on the iron-grid catwalk, looking down at the stage from the wings,
aimless work on the stage, tormentors, teasers, heavy cables hanging from pulleys on the grid."
Medford to Salem
9:18, 55 degrees, odometer 122626. Found my charger so I got the camera charge a little bit before I left. I-5 immediately to Exit 34 for Route 62, the Crater Lake Highway. Blue sky, a lot of low-hanging clouds, a bit of cumulus ahead of me, to my left clouds are low and lying in front of the mountains. $12 of $1.839 gasoline at a Shell station. Mostly a blue sky with cirrud, some clouds to the east, clear blue to the west. Mount Shasta to my right. Finally into country again at 9:15, rolling country, mountains off in the distance to the left and way off to the right. Green grass, some orchards, a ramshackle house, lots of fields, pines on the hillsides, some other kind of evergreen. A curvy road with a river down there below me, lots of pines, Canyonville, trailer homes, very hilly country. Red rock alongide me, a bridge over a wide river, no chance to take photos. Going through another corridor of tall pines close to the road, narrow 2-lane highway, blue sky up ahead, the road to Crater Lake at 10:48. Crater Lake and Klamath County ("We Honor Veterans") at 10:54, temp 38, the road slushy, snow piled up above the height of my car to the right. Rim Village at 11:38, temp 30. After a long slightly treacherous drive, a quick look and it's time to leave. This could become a sacred place if there weren't so many people here.
Back down 62 heading for Medford again. Back into civilized territory more or less at 11:49, temp 50, still lined with pine trees but not tall ones with no limbs for quite a few feet but filled-out ones with boughs down to the ground, the road to Mill Creek Falls. Peyton Bridge at Lost Creek Lake, Rogue Elk Park at Elk Creek, Lewis Creek, and the road to Canyonville.
Oregon 234 at 1:24 and the Dodge Bridge over the Rogue River, Gold Hill at 1:38 and back on I-5 at 1:48. More great country, pine-covered mountains off to my left, just row upon row of them, a hazy sky with the sun shining through the haze. Grants Pass at 1:58, clouds over a mountain make it look like a mountain blowing its stack. Denny's at Grants Pass for coffee and English muffin. Sexton Mountain Pass elevation 1960 north of Grants Pass, surrounded by mountains again. Stage Road Pass elevation 1830, Douglas County at 2:45. Up and then down through really fpine-filled lopes, down in a valley, surrounded by pine-covered hills of Oregon, not as spectacular as Grand Canyon or Yosemite but a magnificent beauty all its own. Canyon Creek at 2:57. Canyonville exit at 3:00.
If I had taken a right turn to the North Gate coming down from Crater Lake instead of a left, it probably would have saved me an hour or even more. But, without an Oregon map, I decided to take the safe route, not realizing I had the maps from Crater Lake. Big orange rock scar on the hillside just past Canyonville, probably natural. Lots of black and white csttle, some all black, small rounded hills, the towns of Riddle and Myrtle Creek TriCity at 3:05, temp 60, the pine-covered hills dotted with patches of pasture land. Some trees in bloom here, probably fruit trees, very pleasant country with the trees in pink and white bloom, green glass, nice looking houses, an animal shelter, pines on the hillside, the Umpaqua River. Brown Ferry, Clarks Branch. What incredible country this is, like something out of a children's book, rolling green hills with purple mountains in the distance, houses on the hillsides, blue houses, light green one, brighter green, bright green shed, a red shed weathered until its pink, bright green grass, what looks like a llama, incredibly beautiful country, cattle out grazing. Coos Bay, Grant Smith Road. A bunch of ramshackle unpainted sheds, Niaqua River down there, a vulture hovering over the road and river, a couple of women walking along the river on a paved path. Garden Valley Boulevard, Diamond Lake, Edenbower Boulevard, Shan's Restaurant, Calapooya Creek, vista opening up of bright green hills with dark hills behind them, Metz Hill. Eugene at 4:34, temp 60. Sky overcast but clumpy with tiny patches of blue everywhere. The Mackenzie River.
Into Salem at 5:25, off I-5 at 5:34, passing the 45th parallel. Ray and Carol's at Offenbach Court at 5:43, temp 56. I took them to an Oriental restaurant and we got much more food than we could possibly eat, which Ray and Carol took home with them.
I met Ray Locke at New Haven State Teachers College in 1957 and we hung around together until I left for NYU, still seeing each other regularly whenever I was in town until he moved, first to Cleveland (where I visited them once) then to Salem (where I visited them in 2005).
Sunday, February 28
1960: "When you see that Greek art, you realize that in 2000 years we've gone nowhere."
Sat around and talked most of the day, watching the Republican primary reports. Ray cooked dinner, macaroni with tomato sauce.
They both look pretty good despite having a number of physical problems, scrambling for money like Alex and Linda.
Monday, February 29
My grandfather Otis Edward Carrington was born in 1876.
Salem to Beaverton
Mailed off my MidAmeriCon membership then left at 12 noon, exactly. odometer 123014, temp 53. Full service gasoline for $23.32 at $1.799. I-5 to Portland at 12;09, a lot of traffic in the middle of the day. Overcast sky with predictions of rain for the next few days, putting an end to my long string of good weather days. Beaverton at 12:45, route 217, Pinetree Motel around 1:00, odometer 123053.
Beaverton/Lars Hedbor, Briefcandle Press
Tuesday, March 1
Up at 8, chilly, a bit of rain. Waffle, apple juice, English muffin, Danish, banana, cereal, coffee at the motel. I changed rooms because the one I was in had ants. Got an email from Lars Hedbor, who publishes Brief Candle Press. I'll meet him tomorrow night.
1965: "How many days have flown by in the arms of Nancy Wilson."
Off to AAA to get a bunch of maps and tour books then some groceries--flavored water, candy, tomatoes.
In the evening, I got a terrible hamburger (I couldn't finish it), mac'n'cheese, and a root beer at an A&W root beer place.
Wednesday, March 2
2007: "Wayne is in the hospital again."
Didn't get up till 8 because my cell phone alarm didn't go off. Apparently I plugged it into a wall receptacle that drained the battery instead of charging it. Apple juice, 4 slices of toast, Danish, cereal, coffee at the motel. A damp chilly day and the forecast is for a week of rain. But, after all, it is the Northwest.
Later I had a DQ strawberry sundae (not very good) and coffee at the Jack in the Box. Despite the forecast, it's not raining, although it is very overcast with the sun trying unsuccessfully to break through.
I met Lars Hedbor, my nanopublisher, on a rainy evening at Dickie Jo's in south Portland for hamburgers. It was raining pretty heavily as I went down 217 to I-5, wall to wall traffic, not a lot of fun on a rainy night in unfamiliar territory. We talked for over 3 hours, mostly about other stuff than how to get more sales for my books. He works as a computer administrator (or something like that) for a medical organization. A rather stout man with a very hearty laugh that probably annoyed several other people in the room, but a nice guy.
The Oregon Coast
Thursday, March 3
Up at 8:20. Each morning, I'm finding it harder and harder to get up. Despite the forecast, it's a partly sunny day with quite a bit of blue sky. A couple of slices of toast, cereal, coffee, banana, apple juice, and yogurt for breakfast. 10:04, temp 52, odometer 123090, clouded over, got a bit of rain, now partly cloudy with blue sky past clouds in the west.
1994: "I finished my last letter to Ed, 'Taking All the Words Away.'"
Beaverton to Newport
Oregon 217 to Oregon 99W, straight into overcast, a little bit of rain. Bull Mountain Road, a little bit of country, residential rather than business, Tualatin, very light rain, wipers as intermittent as they can be, overcast ahead but sun high and shining through the clouds to my left, not great weather but not as bad as it could be, through suburbia, businesses, shopping marts, homes. Into pine country, a few houses, not entirely country, small homes, one story, trailers, raining a little more heavily, totally overcast. Yamhill County at 10:30, over a little ridge, looking down into a bit of a valley, Herbert Hoover Highway, low pine-covered hills off to my right. Newberg at 10:37, home of George Fox University. Raining heavily now. Welcome to Dundee, Erath Winery, Dundee Coventry Church, Babica Hen Restaurant, pretty flat west of Dundee, slightly rolling, still a lot of pines, even in the distance.
Route 18 at 10:46, wipers still on full, rain ahead, to my left (south) some white sky. McMinnville population 33000 at 10:51. Past the Aviation & Space Museum, with some kind of commercial jetliner on top of one of the buildings. 11:00, a lot of empty space here, farming country, sheds, a few houses, raining pretty heavily, looks pretty rainy up ahead, still somewhat white off to my left, the sun trying to break through every once and a while. To my left is rounded hills, mostly pastureland of some kind, some pines, mostly farming country. The towns of Amity and Bellevue, Bernard's Farm. It looks like I'm on the south edge of a storm. As the sky to my left turns brighter, it rains heavily; as it gets darker, the rain lets up a little. Welcome to Polk County. Not a great travel day; this would be more fun if it weren't for the rain; nice country, what I can see of it--a bit hillier than I would have expected, not mountainous, but definitely a lot of hills, a lot of pines, not many farms right now, lightly forested country with an occasional house. Williamina. Blue sky up ahead and to my left, big fluffy cumulus, dark off to my right, windshield wipers still on full, Tillamook, Spirit Mountain Casino. Van Duzer Forest Corridor, on either side, a little creek, mostly pine, good percentage of naked deciduous trees, a lot of ground cover, curving road, a bit of an uphill, pink blossoms on one tree, a lot of blue, fair amount of cumulus, rain has stopped, kind of chilly, temp 53, into a clear-cut area full of stumps and tree debris, another one recovering with a lot of high bushes and brush, entering Tillamook County, big high bank of cumulus up ahead. Lincoln County at 11:35. Trees with moss-covered limbs and trunks, all over them, a rapids-filled small river or large creek off to my left, blue disappearing with cumulus clouds but not storm clouds. Drift Creek Covered Bidge, Drift Creek Falls Trail, Bear Creek.
101 south at 11:47, temp 56. Lincoln City at 11:49. Owner Cafe in Lincoln City at 11:55 for clam chowder and a diet Pepsi. Very sunny down, lots of blue sky to the west, seagulls flying ovrerhead, the ocean over there to my right (west), a bit windy but still a very nice day except that I have the sun in my face again. Turned into a pretty nice day. The Beach Bum Thrift Store and occasional views over there at Kernville (I think), a rounded hill with pines and something with a light green color to the south of town, crossing Schooner Creek, mud flats alongside the road, some pretty big breakers out there. The Siletz River and Millport Slough. Incredible rocks out in the ocean and no place to pull over and take a picture. Boiler Bay--very impressive, fantastic breakers and you could look down on the sea long before it hit the shore and you could see the water seem to boil before it forms breakers, hitting rock and spewing up into the air, really really and impressive sight. Just before Depoe Bay. Once again surrounded by pines and down there that rocky promontory with so many breakers. The Ben Jones Rocky Creek Bridge.
The Oregon coastline is so impressive, the breakers starting way out in the ocean, the pines and hills. To me, it's more incredible than the California coast.
Newport at 1:17. Days Inn at 1:26, temp 59, odometer 123199. Iced tea and tomato soup at the Cafe Mundo. Returned in the evening to play 4 songs. It's an interesting place with some good paintings on the walls, if you like that kind of stuff, of which there were different kinds, even representational. I got there at 6:30, signed up 4th, then went upstairs for a veggie wrap (mediocre) and chair (ditto). Only 3 tables downstairs, more upstairs on a kind of balcony over the kitchen.
The woman who ran the open mike played 3 songs on piano, then it was a bodhran and flutes, 3 or 4 more songs by the emcee before I did "New Kid in Town," "The Bag I'm In," "Four O'Clock on the Highway," and "Santa Fe," the first time I've played covers since Phoenix. I thought I did pretty well then the heavy artillery came in. I was followed by a guy on electric who was pretty good, a guy on nylon-string and piano who was mediocre, a young lady on electric with loop boxes who was pretty good, maybe some others. The last guy up before I left did folk pop, including Simon&Garfunkel, with standard Sixties folk picking. Mostly older people, between 40 and 65. I may have been the only male there over 40 who didn’t have facial hair, mostly fairly short beards but one with a mountain man shag. There was one table of 4-5 young people, a good-looking young lady, as well as the electric guitar player. And the waitress was almost a dead ringer for the Eileen Goenner I knew back in 1966-67. A nice place but it had the feeling of a place whose time (if it ever had one) was way in the past.
Friday, March 4
1995: "While aiming a Leko, it was open and smacked me in the face, cutting my lip"
Beaverton to the Washington line
Up at 8 with difficulty, overcast and cold but not raining . Cereal, banana, donut, apple juice, coffee at the motel. On the road at 9:09, 54 degrees, odometer 123202, $16 of full service $1.979 gas, $300 from the Chase National Bank, candy and granola bars from Fred Meyer, then back up 101 at 9:30, overcast but not raining.
Yaquina Head, Outstanding National Area with a lighthouse. Moolack Beach, really spectacular with the waves breaking way out, rolling in then breaking again, maybe a third or even a fourth time. Gray overcast sky, a bit of a breeze, very rocky beach, beyond where the water comes in is a rock shelf of some kind, probably exposed during low tide, big rocks down there, a lighthouse down the coast, a great big bay, a beautiful day despite the lack of sun. The beach itself, what there is of it below the road, has steep slippery paths down to it so I exercised discretion. Devil's Punchbowl State Park and Otter Rock--a lot of crows, a big fat ground squirrel.
Cape Foulweather. Rock Creek, just below the Whale Cove Inn, and south of Depoe Bay, Whale Watching Capitol of the World, World's Smallest Harbor. Passed Boiler Bay. Tsunami Warning Zone. Siletz Bay looks like a swamp, a lot of tree stumps in the water.
Lincoln City at 10:44, past Route 18 at 11:00, heading north on 101 on virgin territory for me, swampy area off to my right, great big grassy valley to my left, including the river that forms the swamp, standing water on the left then the hills that form one side of the valley. Old birches or aspens alongside the road, not very big but very shaggy, looking beaten down. Welcome to Tillamook County again, mostly pines, occasional aspen, on both sides of the road. Siuslaw National Forest, more aspens among the pines. Neskowin, a rather swampy looking lake off to my left, aspens to my right, pines everywhere. Winema Wayfinding Point. Rolling hills and farms, mild curves--I might just as well be in New England as in Oregon. The Busty Cow, maybe an antique store, in a small town somewhere in Tillamook County. The town of Hebo, Yellow Dog Espresso. The town of Beaver (maybe), no town sign but several businesses The Beaver this and The Beaver that. A creek babbling alongside the road, a trickling coming down a rock face to it. Flat country now, a range of mountains rising ahead of me, starting to my left then going and going off to my right to somewhere behind me. Another air museum with a jet fighter on a pole, a jet fighter popsickle. Entering Tillamook at 10:51, a logging truck ahead of me.
The Shilo Inn Restaurant at 10:58 for a BLT and coffee. Rain coming down finally, what looks like a girder bridge made out of cement. A real girder bridge over the Kilchis Riveroff to my left, probably a railroad bridge, and the Hathaway Slough.
Welcome to Bay City at 12:35. To my right a mud flat, to my left a great big bay with no breakers although it's choppy, Garibaldi at 12:40 after a big U turn around that big wide bay, whatever it's called, a small line of passenger cars, the last one of which was open and looked like a trolley car. M'wa Pink Pig, the Umpqua Bank, a couple of long piers with shacks at their ends. Couple of big islands out there, one very long and narrow, incredible rocks jutting out from the ocean. Looka lmoat like Canada now with the pines, a railroad line that bisects a body of water on a roadbed across the water. 12:55, past Jetty Creek, which is past Rockaway Beach, rain coming down pretty heavy now, over a river or bay with a big sandy beach on the other side of the water. Welcome to Wheeler and Paradise Cove at 1:00, a big flat green island out there in Nehalen Bay. Nehalen at 1:04, a good old western town with those square storefronts with a roof over the sidewalk and a second floor. Welcome to Manzanita on the Beach, the Neahkanie Beach, at 1:09, and the Neahkanie Mountain at Oswald West State Park. Necarney Creek, big mountains rising ahead of the road. Welcome to Clatsop County at 12:18. Still got some pretty good breakers going out there at Archer's Creek. Down to the beach, such as it is, breakers not as impressive as down the coast but still pretty incredible, breaking way out, pretty high, a kind of sea cave in the cliff at Silver Point south of Cannon Beach. Entering Seaside at 11:45 and Gearhart at 1:52.
A big long scary iron girder bridge, one lane each way, the bridge itself ends and now we're on a long causeway going across the water, more girders up ahead at the other side of the bay or whatever, probably over a mile wide, into Washington state.